Circuit
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« Reply #320 on: June 25, 2012, 10:39:45 AM » |
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I LOVE the PDX series amps. I installed that amp in Cordova's MS3 with Polk Components and Eclipse sub and it sounded great.
They have a new, more powerful PDX 5-channel (100x4 + 500x1) and it is tempting, but the speaker channels are not powerful enough for me. I need more headroom and would love if they made a 150x4 + 500x1
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djchris721
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« Reply #321 on: June 25, 2012, 10:40:59 AM » |
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I LOVE the PDX series amps. I installed that amp in Cordova's MS3 with Polk Components and Eclipse sub and it sounded great.
They have a new, more powerful PDX 5-channel (100x4 + 500x1) and it is tempting, but the speaker channels are not powerful enough for me. I need more headroom and would love if they made a 150x4 + 500x1
how's the wiring going to work on it? can i do a straight swap or I have to redo the whole wiring again? |
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AT&T service equals kyles poop shots  Chris, keep it on the low. It's me YVES. I just wanna troll the forums right now.. hahah.  Its pretty much an inner membrane that comes out during defecation and retracts afterwards. Serves to keep their actual outer butthole from being full of shit all of the time.
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Circuit
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« Reply #322 on: June 25, 2012, 04:14:55 PM » |
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Yeah you should be able to do a straight swap.
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briann
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« Reply #323 on: June 25, 2012, 05:13:34 PM » |
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Hey Circuit, I has issue lol so the subs I bought aren't hitting hard and I asked the installers about it and they said its because of the Bose system/amp. I had a scosche 4chan LOC put in but switched it to a Kicker 2chan LOC now that they had it in stock. But they say it's still not working right. They said they tried tapping into the rear speakers then the front and they stil sound the same. Is there any way past this or are they doing something wrong?
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 '09 Mazda3 Black Mica GT Hatchback |
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Circuit
Low and Slow
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« Reply #324 on: June 26, 2012, 07:18:48 AM » |
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Are they tapping into the signal before or after the amp? If before, the low level output from the deck might be too low. They can try the output after the amp (under the driver's seat) to see if that resolves the issue.
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briann
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« Reply #325 on: June 26, 2012, 12:32:33 PM » |
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Are they tapping into the signal before or after the amp? If before, the low level output from the deck might be too low. They can try the output after the amp (under the driver's seat) to see if that resolves the issue.
I believe they had the 4chan LOC behind the radio. They then tried it out with the 2chan LOC behind the radio then again at the amp but still the same outcome. Should they be tapping into something else?(TWSS) idk lol But I couldn't see the LOC under my seat just now. He did mention he tried it from there though... |
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briann
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« Reply #326 on: June 26, 2012, 12:41:10 PM » |
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They said the only way to solve it is to get an aftermarket deck. Because the Bose doesn't send a strong enough signal. I thought some people that have it had added a subwoofer with no problem...
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Frank Templeton Jr.
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« Reply #327 on: June 26, 2012, 01:23:47 PM » |
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Hey I'm an asshole, deal with it. who wouldn't love 5 guys? |
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Circuit
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« Reply #328 on: June 26, 2012, 04:15:24 PM » |
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After the amp seems like the best spot, but if they still can't get it right, check at another shop |
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marF
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and then we're gonna go to Vermont! Peeeeeyaaaah!
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« Reply #330 on: June 29, 2012, 11:18:40 PM » |
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Just picked up an Eclipse SW4210 sub and I'm not sure how powerful of an amp I should run.
RMS is only 250w but max says 750w.
Thanks in advance!
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« Last Edit: June 29, 2012, 11:35:35 PM by marF »
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-Screw-on filter conversion - VG Shark Fin antenna - 08' shift knob - MS3 Shift Boot - Volt 35w 6000k HIDs -Injen CAI -M3 style trunk lip - MS coilovers -camber links- BaysonR lip - Smoked LED 3rd Brake Light-Black 5zigen FN01R-C's - Red Muteki Lugs- Custom Magnaflow Exhaust-RHO plate-TRZ rmm- JBR shifter bushings- |
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Circuit
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« Reply #331 on: June 30, 2012, 08:55:49 AM » |
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Always follow RMS power ratings. Max is just marketing fluff. Since it is a dual 4ohm voice coil, you need an amp that will put out 250w RMS at 2ohm, which should be pretty inexpensive to find.
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marF
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and then we're gonna go to Vermont! Peeeeeyaaaah!
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« Reply #332 on: June 30, 2012, 02:09:27 PM » |
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Awesome thanks man!
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Design
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« Reply #333 on: July 11, 2012, 01:50:00 PM » |
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They said the only way to solve it is to get an aftermarket deck. Because the Bose doesn't send a strong enough signal. I thought some people that have it had added a subwoofer with no problem...
If possible try to avoid tapping the amplified signal. The Bose processor tweaks the signal quite a bit downstream. I can confirm the Bose output signal, while line level, is very VERY weak. There is also a low frequency roll-off with both F&R channels (worse in the rear). I had to max the gain on the PAC AOEM MAZ2 plus increase the signal another 6 db to get any usable bass for the sub. So yes you'll want to mitigate with an aftermarket deck, Cleansweep or some other form of EQ. Here's the link to the AOEM MAZ2. Contrary to what's written, this is made specifically for Bose units: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18698_PAC-AOEM-MAZ2.html |
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« Last Edit: July 11, 2012, 01:55:34 PM by Design »
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Frank Templeton Jr.
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« Reply #334 on: July 11, 2012, 02:00:15 PM » |
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Always follow RMS power ratings. Max is just marketing fluff. Since it is a dual 4ohm voice coil, you need an amp that will put out 250w RMS at 2ohm, which should be pretty inexpensive to find.
Max ratings are pretty retarded and some lower end stuff cant even keep up with its RMS ratings. Some higher end stuff can be over driven. I remember my old JL 12w3v2 was rated 300rms but I was running 400 for over 2 years with no issue at all. I miss that sub. |
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Circuit
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« Reply #335 on: July 11, 2012, 04:02:57 PM » |
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Always follow RMS power ratings. Max is just marketing fluff. Since it is a dual 4ohm voice coil, you need an amp that will put out 250w RMS at 2ohm, which should be pretty inexpensive to find.
Max ratings are pretty retarded and some lower end stuff cant even keep up with its RMS ratings. Some higher end stuff can be over driven. I remember my old JL 12w3v2 was rated 300rms but I was running 400 for over 2 years with no issue at all. I miss that sub. Very true, but to the masses, using RMS is the easiest since people like to turn on silly things like "loudness" and "bass boost" . My Polk SR6500's are getting twice their rated power since they are bi-amped by an Eclipse XA4000 and I only want to throw more at them  |
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briann
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« Reply #336 on: August 17, 2012, 12:15:38 PM » |
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So I want to add this to my setup.  My amp doesn't have a RJ-11 plug so I have to go through the RCAs to add a bass control knob. Question is what length RCAs should I go with? Does this connect to the back of the headunit or the amp? Or it doesn't matter. Edit: That's a big picture lol |
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Homer3D
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« Reply #337 on: August 17, 2012, 02:15:56 PM » |
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So I want to add this to my setup.
My amp doesn't have a RJ-11 plug so I have to go through the RCAs to add a bass control knob. Question is what length RCAs should I go with? Does this connect to the back of the headunit or the amp? Or it doesn't matter.
Edit: That's a big picture lol
That is just an inline gain/level control. It can be install anywhere inline between the head unit and amp. I have never used one of those before and it is sort of interesting that both sides are female. I guess you will need that plus 2 sets of RCA’s. Not sure about the length but I would assume you are going to mount the control near the head unit. So maybe like a 3 to 5 foot to reach from the head unit to the control knob location and the maybe a 10-15 foot one to reach from there to where your amp is (assuming it is in the trunk area). |
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briann
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« Reply #338 on: August 17, 2012, 03:27:54 PM » |
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So I want to add this to my setup.
My amp doesn't have a RJ-11 plug so I have to go through the RCAs to add a bass control knob. Question is what length RCAs should I go with? Does this connect to the back of the headunit or the amp? Or it doesn't matter.
Edit: That's a big picture lol
That is just an inline gain/level control. It can be install anywhere inline between the head unit and amp. I have never used one of those before and it is sort of interesting that both sides are female. I guess you will need that plus 2 sets of RCA’s. Not sure about the length but I would assume you are going to mount the control near the head unit. So maybe like a 3 to 5 foot to reach from the head unit to the control knob location and the maybe a 10-15 foot one to reach from there to where your amp is (assuming it is in the trunk area). Yeah I plan to mount it on the side of the center console kind of where your right knee would be. I was thinking a 3 or 6 foot RCA cable. So I need two sets of RCAs? Thought I'd need one and one would plug into an existing set in there. Idk lol |
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« Last Edit: August 17, 2012, 03:41:07 PM by briann »
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Homer3D
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« Reply #339 on: August 17, 2012, 03:58:34 PM » |
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Yeah I plan to mount it on the side of the center console kind of where your right knee would be. I was thinking a 3 or 6 foot RCA cable. So I need two sets of RCAs? Thought I'd need one and one would plug into an existing set in there. Idk lol
You will need 2 total. If you already have one from an existing installation then you just need one more. |
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